Chhattisgarh

Chhattisgarh is one of those states where my travels were dominated by temples and archaeology.

Ancient Shiva temples stand against forested hills. Old pilgrimage towns developed around rivers. Buddhist monasteries survive beside Hindu and Jain monuments. In some places, a small modern town gives very little indication of the history waiting a few kilometres away.

Raipur is the state capital and the natural starting point for many journeys. But some of the places that interested me most were away from the capital: Bhoramdeo among the Maikal hills, the temple town of Rajim, historic Ratanpur and the archaeological remains of Sirpur.

This page brings together the places I have explored in Chhattisgarh.

More will be added as I continue travelling through the state.

Destinations

Bhoromdeo

Bhoramdeo is one of the most impressive temple sites I visited in Chhattisgarh.

Located near Kawardha in Kabirdham district, the principal temple is dedicated to Shiva and stands against the green backdrop of the Maikal hills.

The exterior is covered with sculptures of deities, dancers, musicians, couples and scenes of everyday life. The richness of these carvings has led to Bhoramdeo often being called the Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh.

But the sculptures are only part of the experience.

The temple, the hills behind it and the quiet surroundings together make Bhoramdeo memorable.

Dongargarh

Dongargarh is one of Chhattisgarh's important pilgrimage towns.

Its best-known landmark is the Maa Bamleshwari Temple, situated on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside. Reaching the shrine traditionally involves climbing a long flight of steps, although a ropeway provides another option.

The town has both the Badi Bamleshwari and Chhoti Bamleshwari temples and draws large numbers of devotees, particularly during Navaratri.

The hill itself adds considerably to the experience.

Raipur

Raipur is the capital of Chhattisgarh and a convenient base for exploring several historic and religious places in the region.

The modern city has grown considerably, but temples, museums and older neighbourhoods still provide glimpses of its earlier history.

My explorations here were not limited to the city as a modern capital. They also became a starting point for understanding the larger cultural landscape of Chhattisgarh.

Rajim

Rajim sits at the confluence of the Mahanadi, Pairi and Sondur rivers and is often called the Prayag of Chhattisgarh.

The historic Rajiv Lochan Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, is the principal landmark. An inscription associates the temple with King Vilasatunga of the Nala dynasty.

Nearby is the Kuleshwar Mahadev Temple, standing close to the river confluence.

Rajim is also known for the annual Rajim Kumbh, when the otherwise quiet town fills with pilgrims, religious gatherings and cultural events.

Here, temple architecture and the river landscape are difficult to separate.

Ratanpur

Ratanpur was once an important capital of the Kalachuri rulers.

Today, the town is best known for the Mahamaya Devi Temple, but traces of its political and architectural past survive elsewhere too.

Old temples, fort remains, gateways and tanks make Ratanpur worth exploring beyond the principal shrine.

This is one of those places where a pilgrimage centre and a historic capital occupy the same landscape.

Sirpur

Sirpur is perhaps the most archaeologically varied destination on this list.

Known in ancient times as Shripura, the settlement developed into an important centre of Dakshina Kosala.

What survives here is remarkable because it does not belong to just one religious tradition.

There are Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries, stupas and Jain remains.

The famous Lakshman Temple, built in brick, is one of the best-known monuments. But Sirpur becomes far more interesting when the larger archaeological landscape is explored.

The Buddhist remains are particularly significant. Excavated monasteries, sculptures and other finds reveal that Sirpur was once an important Buddhist centre as well.

This is not a site to rush through.

Every excavation seems to add another chapter.

Temples, Buddhism and Archaeology

Most of my Chhattisgarh articles so far happen to revolve around sacred architecture and heritage.

Bhoramdeo is important for its Shiva temple and sculpture.

Dongargarh is primarily a living pilgrimage centre.

Rajim combines ancient Vishnu and Shiva temples with its sacred river confluence.

Ratanpur connects Goddess worship with Kalachuri history.

Sirpur goes much further, bringing Hindu, Buddhist and Jain remains into the same archaeological landscape.

Even Raipur works well as a starting point for several such journeys.

So rather than separating every place into repeated lists of "Temples", "Buddhist Sites" and "Monuments", I prefer to let each destination tell its complete story.

That is also how I experienced Chhattisgarh.

One town at a time.

Happy travelling.