Tirupati Umbrella Procession from Chennai – The Thirukkudai Tradition

Mention a religious procession in Chennai and the first one that comes to my mind is the famous procession of the 63 Nayanmars during the Mylapore festival.

But Chennai has another fascinating procession.

This one does not end at a temple within the city. Its destination is hundreds of kilometres away at Tirumala.

Every year, beautifully decorated ceremonial umbrellas are taken from Chennai for the Brahmotsavam of Sri Venkateswara. Known as Thirukkudai, these enormous umbrellas begin their journey from the old quarters of North Chennai and eventually reach Tirumala in time for the important Garuda Seva.

Watching them move through Chennai's streets is quite a sight.

The Umbrellas for Tirumala

Srivari Brahmotsavam is the major annual festival of the Tirumala Venkateswara Temple. Over nine days, the processional murti of Malayappa Swami is taken through the Mada Streets on different vahanas.

Among the most important events is Garuda Seva, when Malayappa Swami appears on Garuda Vahana.

Special ceremonial umbrellas from Chennai form part of this occasion.

Traditionally, a set of eleven decorated umbrellas is associated with the Chennai offering. Nine are taken for use during the Garuda Seva at Tirumala, while two are associated with Sri Padmavati at Tiruchanur.

These are not ordinary umbrellas. Their enormous circular canopies, elaborate borders and colourful decoration make them ceremonial objects in their own right.

The Procession Begins in Chennai

The Chennai journey begins with worship at the Chenna Kesava Perumal Temple in the old George Town and Sowcarpet area.

After the puja, the umbrellas are carried out in procession.

This was the part that interested me most.

An offering intended for a temple in Tirumala does not simply get packed into a vehicle and delivered there. Its journey itself becomes part of the religious observance.

The huge umbrellas rise above the crowd as the procession moves through the streets of North Chennai. Devotees gather along the route, and the normally busy commercial streets briefly acquire a completely different character.

When I witnessed the procession, representations of the Dashavataras and the twelve Alvars also accompanied it. A silk offering intended for Sri Venkateswara was displayed in a glass case as part of the procession.

Hundreds of devotees followed or gathered along the route.

Chennai and Tirumala

The umbrellas are part of a wider connection between Tamil Nadu and the Tirumala Brahmotsavam.

Another important offering comes from Srivilliputhur Andal Temple. Garlands associated with Andal, or Goda Devi, are ceremonially taken from Srivilliputhur to Tirumala and offered to Malayappa Swami for Garuda Seva.

So, on one of the most important days of the Tirumala festival, two very visible traditions from Tamil Nadu come together: Andal's garlands from Srivilliputhur and the ceremonial umbrellas from Chennai.

The umbrellas eventually reach Tirumala, where they are formally handed over for use during the Brahmotsavam.

An Offering That Becomes a Journey

What I like most about this tradition is not merely the size or decoration of the umbrellas.

It is the journey.

Someone makes them. Someone decorates them. Devotees gather around them in Chennai. They pass through streets, towns and temples before eventually reaching the hills of Tirumala.

For several days, an object made as an offering becomes part of a moving festival.

Many Chennai residents may have travelled to Tirupati countless times without knowing that, once every year, these enormous umbrellas make their own journey from the city to Sri Venkateswara.

If you happen to see them passing through the streets of North Chennai during Brahmotsavam season, stop for a few minutes.

It is a Chennai tradition travelling towards Tirumala.

Happy travelling.