Kanheri Caves

Mumbai is not the first place that comes to mind when we think of ancient Buddhist cave complexes.

Yet, hidden within the greenery of Sanjay Gandhi National Park is Kanheri, an enormous collection of more than a hundred rock-cut Buddhist caves.

The name Kanheri is derived from Krishnagiri, meaning Black Mountain. The caves developed over several centuries and include viharas where Buddhist monks lived and studied, chaityas used for worship, stupas, water cisterns, inscriptions and an impressive collection of Buddhist sculptures.

What makes Kanheri particularly interesting is its scale.

This is not a place that can be understood by visiting one or two famous caves. Some excavations are simple monastic cells. Others contain inscriptions recording donations from merchants and devotees. And then there is Cave 3, the great Chaitya, with monumental architecture and sculptures.

I therefore decided not to cover Kanheri in a single article.

This series explores the caves slowly, looking at their architecture, sculptures, inscriptions and smaller details that can easily be missed during a casual visit.

Start Here

Part 1 – Introduction to Kanheri Caves

Begin here for an overview of Kanheri, its Buddhist background, the different types of caves and the scale of the complex.

Cave 1 – The Unfinished Vihara

Part 2 – Cave 1

Cave 1 is an unfinished vihara. Its incomplete interior and surviving pillars provide an interesting opportunity to look at the process of rock-cut excavation itself.

Cave 2 – Stupas, Sculptures and Inscriptions

Cave 2 needed several articles of its own.

It contains a vihara and three stupas, along with numerous later Buddhist sculptures and inscriptions. The different phases visible within this single cave make it particularly useful for understanding how Kanheri continued to develop over time.

Part 3 – Cave 2: The First Stupa

The exploration of Cave 2 begins with its first stupa and the Buddhist sculptures around it.

Part 4 – Cave 2: Second and Third Stupas

This part moves to the other stupas and begins examining the extensive series of Buddha sculptures around the third stupa.

Part 5 – Cave 2: Buddha Sculptures

A closer look at the standing Buddha figures and other sculptural panels on the walls of the third stupa chamber.

Part 6 – Cave 2: Padmapani Avalokiteshvara

One of the most interesting parts of the series.

A large Padmapani Avalokiteshvara dominates the back wall, surrounded by scenes representing dangers from which the Bodhisattva protects devotees.

Part 7 – Cave 2: The Inscriptions

The inscriptions reveal another side of Kanheri.

Names of donors, merchants, a physician, a goldsmith and people from places such as Kalyan and Nasik appear here, reminding us that the monastery was connected with a much wider world.

Part 8 – Cave 2: Sculptures of the Vihara

The final part on Cave 2 examines the Buddhist sculptural panels around the vihara before the series moves to the next major excavation.

Cave 3 – The Great Chaitya

Cave 3 is the largest and one of the most impressive excavations at Kanheri.

Its courtyard, sculpted entrance, massive pillars, monumental Buddha figures, donor couples and chaitya hall require much more than a quick look.

My exploration of this cave begins with Part 9.

Part 9 – Cave 3: Entrance and Sculptures

The series enters Cave 3 through its sculpted forecourt, examining the parapet walls, animal friezes, guardians and Naga figure.

Part 10 – Cave 3: The Massive Pillars

A detailed look at the two impressive pillars at the entrance, including their bases, shafts, capitals and sculptural details.

Part 11 – Cave 3: Monumental Buddha Sculptures

Two enormous standing Buddha sculptures dominate the verandah of Cave 3.

This article looks closely at their posture, mudras, attire, attendant figures and decorative arches.

Part 12 – Cave 3: Donor Couples and Buddhist Sculptures

Four pairs of large donor figures occupy an important position near the entrance, while numerous later Buddha sculptures reveal how the cave continued to evolve after its original excavation.

Exploring Kanheri Slowly

Kanheri is easy to underestimate.

A visitor can walk into a cave, look around for a minute and move to the next one.

But the real Kanheri begins to emerge only when we slow down.

A small inscription may tell us who paid for a water cistern. An unfinished pillar may reveal how the cave was being excavated. A sculpture added centuries later may show how Buddhist practice itself had changed.

That is why this series has grown to twelve parts.

And there is still much more of Kanheri to explore.

Happy travelling.