Pallava era Cave Temples of Vallam - South India

Vallam, a small village near Chengalpattu, is home to three Pallava-period rock-cut shrines. Though these caves contain some remarkable sculptures and inscriptions, they remain largely unknown even among heritage enthusiasts. All three shrines are excavated into the same hillock and are locally known as the Malai Kovil.

Vallam Cave Shrines

Cave #1:

The first cave is located at the highest point of the hill. Reaching it requires climbing more than a hundred steep steps. Since the shrine continues to be used for worship, the cave has been enclosed with iron grills on all sides. Modern structures have also been added in front of the cave and along its right side, partially hiding the original beauty of this ancient monument.

The shrine is dedicated to Shiva, worshipped here as Vedanteeswarar. The goddess is Gnanambikai, whose shrine faces east. A Shiva linga is enshrined inside the small rock-cut sanctum, while Gnanambikai and the other deities are placed in separate shrines outside it.

The later additions include Selva Vinayakar, Muthukumaraswami with Valli and Devasena, Dakshinamurti, Chandikeshwarar, Nagaraja, and Bhuvaneswari. A Nandi faces the main sanctum. These icons were evidently installed much later and do not belong to the original Pallava-period excavation.

The most important features of this cave are the two rock-cut dwarapalas standing on either side of the sanctum entrance. They are shown in different postures. One carries a trishula, while the other holds a weapon identified as a mazhu. The shrine also contains three inscriptions. Two belong to the Pallava period, while the third is from the later Chola period.

Outside the cave is a large rock-cut image of Ganesha. This is one of the finest and most unusual sculptures at Vallam. As his trunk turns towards the right, he is worshipped as Valampuri Vinayakar.

Ganesha has four arms and is seated on a simhasana, or royal throne. One lower hand rests on a small platform, while the other is placed on his thigh. The upper hands hold what appears to be a broken lotus stalk and another object that is no longer clearly identifiable. His posture is rare and is not commonly seen elsewhere.

On the opposite side of the cave is a small relief of Jyestha Devi. She is shown seated on a platform with both legs hanging down. Jyestha is usually accompanied by two attendants, but those figures are absent here.



Ganesha sculpture at Cave #1

Dwarapalak - Cave #1

Cave #2:

The second cave is located below the upper shrine on the same rocky outcrop. Unlike the first cave, it has neither pillars nor a mandapa. The shrine is no longer under worship and is poorly maintained, with dust covering much of the interior.

Two rock-cut dwarapalas flank the entrance. Inside the small sanctum is a damaged Shiva linga. Reliefs of Jyestha Devi and Ganesha are also found here.

The Ganesha image is again a right-trunked form and is therefore known as Valampuri Vinayaka. He is shown seated on a lotus. Unfortunately, all the sculptures in this cave are poorly maintained, and many of their finer details are difficult to observe.

Cave #3:

The third cave is the northernmost of the three and is located along the path leading to the upper caves. This shrine is dedicated to Vishnu.

It is a simple rock-cut cell without pillars or a mandapa, carved directly into the vertical face of the rock. Inside the shrine, Vishnu is seen with his consorts Sridevi and Bhoodevi. He is worshipped here as Karivaradaraja Perumal.

These three icons appear to be later additions. However, the two rock-cut dwarapalas outside the shrine belong to the original period of the excavation.

A relief of Vishnu Durga is also found outside the cave. The image has become completely blackened due to repeated oil anointment, making many of its original features difficult to identify.



Dwarapalak - Cave #1

History:

It is not clearly known who commissioned these shrines. However, their architectural and sculptural features place them in the period of Mahendravarman Pallava, who ruled between 580 and 630 CE.

The caves may have been excavated by local chiefs serving under Mahendravarman. They probably belong to the late sixth or early seventh century CE, placing them among the early examples of Pallava rock-cut architecture in the region.

Location:

The Vallam cave shrines are located about 3 km from Chengalpattu. Vallam is a small village, and the nearest familiar landmark is the Vallam church. Local residents refer to the site as Malai Kovil.

The village can be reached easily by road from Chengalpattu. From the base, one must climb the hill to reach the three caves.

If you happen to visit Chengalpattu, set aside an additional hour for Vallam. These little-known Pallava caves, with their dwarapalas, unusual Ganesha forms, Jyestha reliefs, inscriptions, and rock-cut sanctums, certainly deserve more attention than they receive.

Happy travelling.

Vallam Cave #3

Vishnu Durga, Cave #3