Coorg – Heaven on Earth: My Article Published in Scroll

In October 2011, my article on Coorg was published in Scroll Articles, an online literary magazine.

The article was titled “Coorg – the Heaven on the Earth.” It brought together my impressions of Madikeri, its temples and monuments, the waterfalls and forests around the town, and some of the better-known pilgrimage destinations of the region.

The article began with a simple question: what kind of traveller would enjoy Coorg?

One friend wanted a place for trekking. Another wanted a quiet weekend where he could do almost nothing. Someone else was looking for religious places, while another preferred forests, rivers and waterfalls.

Coorg seemed to have an answer for all of them.

Coorg Is Not a City

Coorg is often spoken of as though it were a single hill town. It is actually a region in Karnataka, with Madikeri serving as its principal town and the most practical base for exploring the surrounding places.

Madikeri has the conveniences of a town, but the hills, plantations, waterfalls and smaller settlements begin almost immediately beyond it.

That contrast is one of the reasons Coorg works so well as a travel destination. A visitor can spend one part of the day exploring a temple or monument and the next walking through a coffee plantation or watching a waterfall.

Omkareshwara Temple

The Omkareshwara Temple stands in the heart of Madikeri.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is unlike many conventional South Indian temples. Its architecture incorporates forms that appear to draw from more than one tradition. The central structure, arched openings and domed elements give the temple a distinctive appearance.

A large water tank stands in front of the temple. The still water, the surrounding corridor and the unusual architecture together make Omkareshwara one of the most memorable landmarks in Madikeri.

Raja’s Tomb

Raja’s Tomb, also known as Gaddige, is located on elevated ground overlooking the surrounding landscape.

The complex contains the tombs of members of the former ruling family of Coorg and others associated with them. The domed structures stand within an open setting, with the hills forming a natural backdrop.

The place interested me for two reasons. It was a historic monument, but it also offered the kind of broad mountain view normally associated with a scenic viewpoint.

Architecture and landscape worked together here.

Raja’s Seat

Raja’s Seat is perhaps the most familiar viewpoint in Madikeri.

The rulers of Coorg are traditionally believed to have spent time here enjoying the evening and watching the sun descend behind the Western Ghats.

It is easy to understand the attraction. From the edge of the garden, the land falls away into a wide expanse of hills and valleys. Mist, clouds and changing light can alter the view within minutes.

The place does not require a long explanation. One only has to stand there and look.

Abbey Falls and the Coffee Country

Abbey Falls lies outside Madikeri, surrounded by plantations and thick vegetation.

The walk towards the waterfall is an important part of the experience. Coffee plants, trees and the damp air gradually replace the traffic and buildings of the town.

The waterfall itself may not be among the tallest in India, but the setting makes it special. Water descends between dark rocks, while dense greenery encloses the entire scene.

Coorg is often described through its waterfalls, but the plantations, narrow roads and wooded slopes encountered along the way are equally important to its character.

Dubare and Nisargadhama

Dubare, on the banks of the Kaveri, was known for its association with elephants. The river and forested surroundings made it popular not only among families but also among visitors looking for outdoor activities.

Nisargadhama offered a gentler experience.

Surrounded by the Kaveri and known for its bamboo groves, it functioned more as a picnic destination. Deer, birds and the wooded riverbank made it particularly attractive to families travelling with children.

These places showed another side of Coorg. The region was not only about viewpoints and waterfalls. Rivers and forests formed a large part of the journey.

The Golden Temple at Bylakuppe

The Tibetan monastery at Bylakuppe was among the most unexpected places I encountered during the trip.

The richly decorated prayer hall, Buddhist paintings and large sacred figures created an atmosphere far removed from the temples and hill landscapes seen elsewhere in Coorg.

For a first-time visitor, the change is striking. Within the same journey, one moves from coffee estates and Hindu pilgrimage centres to a large Tibetan Buddhist settlement.

That variety is one of Coorg’s strengths.

Talacauvery and Bhagamandala

Talacauvery is traditionally regarded as the source of the River Kaveri.

A small temple complex marks the sacred spot. Steps lead further up the hill, from where the surrounding ranges of the Western Ghats can be seen.

Nearby Bhagamandala is associated with a sacred river confluence and the Bhagandeshwara Temple. Together, Talacauvery and Bhagamandala form one of the most important pilgrimage circuits in the region.

The journey towards them is also memorable. Winding roads pass through forested hills, and the landscape becomes increasingly quiet as one moves away from Madikeri.

Iruppu Falls and Brahmagiri

Iruppu Falls lies in another part of Coorg, close to the Brahmagiri Hills.

Reaching the waterfall requires walking uphill through a wooded landscape. The final stretch can be wet and slippery, but the sight and sound of the falling water make the effort worthwhile.

The Brahmagiri region is also associated with trekking routes, making it suitable for travellers who want more than a conventional sightseeing trip.

During my visit, the plantations near Iruppu left as strong an impression on me as the waterfall itself. There are places where the journey becomes inseparable from the destination. This was one of them.

Why Coorg Stayed with Me

Coorg could not be reduced to a single attraction.

Madikeri had monuments and viewpoints. Omkareshwara brought in architecture and worship. Talacauvery and Bhagamandala represented pilgrimage. Abbey and Iruppu offered waterfalls, while Dubare and Nisargadhama brought visitors closer to the river and forest landscape. Bylakuppe added an entirely different cultural layer.

The original article was never meant to be an exhaustive guide. It was an attempt to capture why Coorg appealed to travellers with very different interests.

More than a decade later, that central thought remains unchanged.

Read my original article, “Coorg – the Heaven on the Earth,” published in Scroll Articles.

The publication remains a memorable milestone in the journey of Indian Columbus.

Happy travelling.